The Iconic AV86 1968 Moonphase: A Collector's Dream Watch

There's a certain romance to the moonphase. Of all the complications in watchmaking, it is perhaps the most poetic—a small, mechanical universe on the wrist that connects us to celestial rhythms. For centuries, it was a practical tool for sailors navigating by the tides and farmers planning by lunar cycles. Today, its function is more emotional than essential, a nod to the rich history of horology and our enduring fascination with the cosmos. The AV86 1968 Moonphase taps directly into that heritage, blending the charming aesthetics of a bygone era with the reliable build of a modern timepiece.

https://av86.com/collections/moonphase-watches

At a glance, this watch feels like a thoughtfully preserved piece from the late 1960s, an era celebrated for its clean lines, balanced dials, and elegantly restrained case sizes. Yet, it’s a contemporary creation, offering the best of both worlds: vintage soul and modern-day specs. For a price that sits comfortably under $300, it makes a compelling case for itself as a stylish, everyday watch that doesn’t break the bank.

A Complication with History

Before we dive into the watch itself, it’s worth appreciating the significance of its signature feature. The moonphase complication has a history that stretches back centuries, with its earliest known mechanical ancestor being the Antikythera mechanism from ancient Greece. From there, it found its way into monumental astronomical clocks during the Renaissance, often gracing cathedrals and town squares. By the 18th and 19th centuries, master watchmakers like Breguet had miniaturized this celestial tracker into pocket watches for the wealthy elite. It wasn't until the 20th century that the moonphase made its way to the wristwatch, solidifying its place as a hallmark of fine watchmaking, famously championed by brands like Patek Philippe.

The beauty of the moonphase is that it's one of the most visually active displays. Unlike a date that changes once a day, the moon is in constant, subtle motion, making the dial feel alive.

While no longer a necessity for navigation, the moonphase remains one of the most beloved complications among enthusiasts. It’s a piece of horological poetry, and the AV86 1968 brings this historically upscale feature into a refreshingly accessible package.

The 1968 Design Language

The late 1960s was a golden era for watch design, a time of transition that saw the refinement of classic mid-century looks before the quartz crisis changed everything. Watches from this period were often characterized by:

• Sensible Proportions: Case sizes were typically modest, often between 34mm and 39mm, designed for comfort and understated elegance.
• Clean Dials: Legibility was key. Dials were often balanced and symmetrical, with simple baton markers and clean typography.
• Durable Materials: Robust stainless steel cases were the standard, establishing the "tool watch" aesthetic that remains popular today.

The AV86 1968 Moonphase captures this spirit perfectly. The 39mm case diameter hits the sweet spot for a modern watch with vintage sensibilities—large enough to have presence but small enough to remain classic and versatile. The dial, especially in the textured green variant, is the star of the show. It features a stunning guilloché pattern that radiates from the center, creating a dynamic play of light and shadow. The symmetrical layout, with day and date subdials flanking the central hands and the moonphase aperture at 6 o'clock, is clean and easy to read, echoing the balanced design principles of its namesake year.

Built for Today: The Specs

While the design is rooted in the past, the materials and mechanics are firmly in the present. Here’s what makes the AV86 1968 a solid modern watch:

The Case and Crystal

The watch is housed in a 316L stainless steel case. For those new to the hobby, 316L is often referred to as "surgical" or "marine-grade" steel, and for good reason. It includes molybdenum, an element that gives it superior resistance to corrosion from sweat and saltwater compared to other steels. It's also hypoallergenic, making it a comfortable choice for daily wear. Atop the case sits a double-domed sapphire crystal. Sapphire is nearly impossible to scratch in everyday use, second only to diamond in hardness. The double-domed shape is a key vintage cue, but it's also functional. It reduces the optical distortion you often see at the edges of single-domed crystals, ensuring the dial is legible from almost any angle.

The Quartz Heart

Inside, the AV86 1968 is powered by a Miyota 6P20 quartz movement. While mechanical movements often get more love from collectors, a high-quality Japanese quartz engine is a pragmatic and intelligent choice for a watch like this. Here’s why:

• Affordability: A quartz movement is a key reason this watch can offer a moonphase complication for under $300. A mechanical equivalent would cost significantly more.
• Reliability and Accuracy: The Miyota 6P20 is a workhorse, known for its reliability and accuracy to within +/-20 seconds per month. You can leave it in your watch box for weeks and it will still be displaying the correct time and moon phase when you pick it up.
• Slimness: Quartz movements are generally thinner than their mechanical counterparts, allowing the case to maintain a sleek 11.35mm profile that sits comfortably on the wrist.

For a watch intended to be an easy-to-wear style piece, the choice of a Miyota quartz movement is a feature, not a compromise. It delivers a hassle-free ownership experience, which is exactly what you want in a daily driver.

Closing Thoughts

The AV86 1968 Moonphase is a thoughtfully executed watch that delivers on its promise. It successfully channels the refined aesthetic of the late 1960s into a modern, reliable, and remarkably accessible package. The combination of a 39mm 316L steel case, a double-domed sapphire crystal, and a beautiful textured dial makes it feel far more premium than its $295 price tag suggests.

It’s a watch that understands its audience: enthusiasts who appreciate vintage design but demand modern performance and value. The decision to use a Miyota quartz movement is a smart one, prioritizing practicality and affordability without sacrificing the watch's core appeal. Add a standard 20mm lug width that invites strap experimentation, and you have a versatile piece that punches well above its weight. If you’ve ever been charmed by the romance of a moonphase but daunted by the price, the AV86 1968 is a fantastic and stylish entry point.