Zenith & Naoya Hida: Platinum Calibre 135 Masterpiece

In the rarefied world of horology, certain collaborations resonate with the force of a perfectly tuned balance wheel. They represent more than just a co-branded dial; they are a meeting of minds, a fusion of philosophies. The new Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co. is precisely such a release—a masterclass in restraint, precision, and cross-cultural craftsmanship that is as significant as it is breathtakingly beautiful.

The Heart of a Champion: Zenith's Legendary Calibre 135

Limited to a mere 10 pieces, this timepiece is the first in Zenith's new "Double Signed Program," an initiative designed to foster creative dialogue with esteemed independent watchmakers. For its debut, Zenith has made an inspired choice, partnering with Naoya Hida, a name synonymous with a meticulous, mid-century-informed aesthetic that has captivated collectors since his brand's founding in 2018. The result is a watch that channels the spirit of watchmaking's golden age through a distinctly Japanese lens, all centered around one of Zenith's most revered historical movements.

A Dial of Quiet Complexity: The Naoya Hida Touch on a Zenith Classic

At first glance, the watch is unmistakably a G.F.J. (Georges Favre-Jacot), the collection Zenith introduced to celebrate its 160th anniversary and the modern revival of the Calibre 135. However, the influence of Naoya Hida is immediately apparent in the dial. Crafted from a solid silver base, it eschews overt complexity for subtle, deeply considered details. This approach is a hallmark of Hida's work, which often draws inspiration from the elegant designs of the 1930s-60s without being a direct reproduction.

Key features of this collaborative dial include:

• Hand-Engraved Indications: Every detail on the dial, from the two brand signatures to the elegant Arabic numerals and markers, is meticulously hand-engraved by master engraver Keisuke Kano.
• Urushi Lacquer: Following the engraving, the numerals are filled with a deep blue Japanese urushi lacquer, a traditional technique that adds a layer of color and texture that is impossible to replicate with modern methods.
• Refined Hands: The hour and minute hands are milled from solid gold and hand-polished, while the small seconds hand is heat-blued steel, echoing the dial's subtle blue accents.

Encased in a 39.15mm platinum case with elegant, stepped lugs, the watch possesses a refined presence that feels both vintage-inspired and perfectly contemporary. Naoya Hida himself noted his admiration for the Calibre 135 dates back to the 1990s, and his goal was to capture "the atmosphere and spirit of the Calibre 135 era in a modern way."

The Heart of a Champion: Zenith's Legendary Calibre 135

While the aesthetic is a harmonious blend of Swiss and Japanese design, the movement is pure Zenith legacy. The Calibre 135 is not just any movement; it is a legend. Developed in 1948 by watchmaker Ephrem Jobin, it was created with one goal: to dominate the prestigious observatory chronometry competitions.

"From 1950 to 1954, the competition version of the movement, the 135-O, achieved an unprecedented feat by winning the Neuchâtel Observatory prize for five consecutive years—a record that stands to this day." In total, the Calibre 135 family amassed over 230 chronometry prizes, making it one of the most awarded movements in history.

The movement's design was entirely performance-focused, featuring an oversized balance wheel for enhanced stability and a large barrel for a more consistent delivery of power. For this modern iteration, Zenith has re-engineered the Calibre 135 while preserving its celebrated architecture. Key updates include:

• An increased power reserve of 72 hours.
• A stop-seconds mechanism for precise time-setting.
• COSC certification and regulation to an impressive +/-2 seconds per day.

Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement is finished with broad Côtes de Genève stripes, hand-chamfering, and a contemporary dark ruthenium treatment that beautifully contrasts with the gold-colored engravings.

Zenith and Naoya Hida: A Shared Philosophy of Excellence

This collaboration is more than a simple partnership; it is an affirmation of shared values. Zenith, a manufacture with over 160 years of history, has consistently pushed the boundaries of precision. Naoya Hida & Co., though a young brand, is built on a deep reverence for watchmaking's history, focusing on meticulous craftsmanship and timeless design principles.

The Japanese influence extends to the very straps provided with this limited edition. Each of the ten owners will receive three distinct, handcrafted options:

• A Himeji Kurozan leather strap, treated with traditional urushi lacquer.
• A strap made from premium Wagyu leather by artisans in Kyoto.
• A deep indigo strap crafted from Japanese denim by the renowned Kaihara Denim mill.

The G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed edition is a testament to what is possible when two masters of their craft—one a storied Swiss manufacture, the other a revered Japanese independent—come together. It is a celebration of a legendary chronometer, reimagined with quiet elegance and profound respect for tradition. For the ten fortunate collectors, it represents a rare and tangible piece of horological history, bridging two cultures dedicated to the pinnacle of watchmaking.

Discover the Collaboration